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Life in China All that glitters is not all that's gold...
Life in China All that glitters is not all that's gold... | All that glitters is not all that's gold... |
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| China | |
| Sunday, 17 June 2007 | |
Part 1 - One Night in Mongkok and a Jaws encounter at Tai Po morning market  Confronted by the kaleidoscopic night time vista of gleaming neon-drenched corporate structures, one feels seemingly swept away to another dimension, not unlike one dreamt up by Philip K. Dick. The sudden audio eruption of melody and synchronized strobe dancing lights from these flickering spectacles reinforces the overall sci-fi indulgence of a different age. This is the majestic metropolis of Hong Kong Island viewed from the Tsim Sha Tsui waterfront. This dazzling vista, along with the newly developed stretch of Avenue of Stars - a 'Walk of Fame' debt to Hong Kong's film industry talents - and the aforementioned 20-minute nightly 'A Symphony of Lights' showcase, served as my introduction to the magical aura of the oriental night time atmosphere. But Hong Kong offers many varied perspectives of its proud city. If you yearn for the slightly tacky touristy attractions then rest assured they will stand out like a sore thumb! Taking the ten-minute trip up to the 552-metre high Victoria Peak via one of two trams - where you will climb up the mountainside - eventually aligns you with the spectacular futuristic skyline. The Peak Tower (mushroomed in Victoria Gap) is like another city in itself - its revitalised "festival market style" multi-story shopping centre encloses a parade of shops, restaurants and teasing confectioneries. The daringly aerodynamic view is a feast for the eyes, offering wondrous panoramic views, but I found locating the snug hideaways of Hong Kong a more rewarding experience. Evening is an ideal time to lose yourself in one of the oldest sections of Kowloon, the infamous and densely populated shopper's mecca of Mongkok. Nathan Road is the town's main street, (linking also to the trendy Tsim Sha Tsui and the jewellery and gold-hunting grounds of Jordan), where you can venture for the latest line in labelled fashion, DVDs, consumer electronics, nick-nack furnishings, and other items of interest all at competitive prices. Clogging many of the streets in central Hong Kong and Kowloon are the stomach-rumbling aromas of "dai pai dongs" (big license stalls) - a cheap and delicious way to satisfy your appetite while you are on the move. Fish, beef and pork balls dipped in chilli sauce are the most popular 'snacks on a stick', but also on offer are fresh and dried squid, spring rolls and the more unusual qualities of "Century egg", which is coated in a wood ash mixture and preserved for several months and is (rest assured) not as prehistoric as it sounds. I recommend you experience at least one larger open-air dai pai dong as the portions are huge (cooked in massive two handled woks), and there are ample choices that include the delicious combination of fresh noodles or rice topped with roasted meats or seafood. The dai pai dong located on Temple Street in Yu Ma Tei is a treat! Alternatively why not venture into Mongkok and experience the irresistible eating sensation that is the Chinese "Huo Guo" - the ‘Hot Pot' also known as ‘Steamboat Stew'). Similar to the Japanese Shabu Shabu, hot pot consists of a huge simmering pot of segmented stocks where selected ingredients such as thinly sliced juicy lamb, pork or beef along with chewy fish balls, lobster and squid and various exotic Chinese vegetables such as kai lan, choi sum and pak choi are cooked by yourself at the table. You can also choose from a variety of tasty stocks to cook with including the spicy Thai style tom yum, traditional Chinese herbal, mouth-watering satay or if you like it very hot try the Szechuan spice - yum! There are many Huo Guo restaurants to choose from in the area, and there really isn't an eating experience like it. Early morning market glory... My hotel was located in Sha tin (which means ‘Sandy Fields' due to its historical sediment land) - an ultra modern, local residential area, not really signposted for tourists. But don't let that dissuade you, as without the touristy distraction you are forced to blend into the indigenous surroundings, giving yourself a real chance to interact with the local customs in your own individual way. Adjoining my hotel, New Town Plaza is a vast interconnecting shopping and recreation centre with densely populated shops and restaurants. Although I must have stood out like a sore thumb among this solidly Chinese crowd, the residents were appreciative enough to give me just a sweeping glance, rather than stare at me like an out-of-place westerner. Above all, Hong Kong is a place where they are really passionate about food. Eating out is an event. Mornings bring local families gathered around large circular tables in vast open planned traditional style restaurants feasting on fresh dim sum, where tireless ladies circle around with trolleys loaded with deliciously prepared steamed dumplings, vegetables, barbecued meats and tantalizing pastry and jelly deserts. And although you would be hard pressed in ordering a refreshing cold drink or anything containing caffeine (Chinese tea is naturally the traditional accompaniment) the tangy tastes of dim sum is enough to stimulate the senses alone. Following breakfast, mornings are a great time to visit Hong Kong's famous Tai Po fish market, where the food is so fresh a decapitated fish head still had the absurd audacity to motion its gaping jaws - which reinforced my partial ichthyophobia (i.e. fear of live fish out of water)! Also clogging the curb was a diverse range of other (fully-formed) fish, including fresh snapper, sea bass, lemon sole, squid, lobster and tiger prawns. Then there's the expected assortment of local fruit and vegetables, and the exotic such as mangoes, lychees, sharon fruit, dragon fruit (similar to kiwi but pink on the outside), and honey and water melons, fresh pak choi, choi sum and unusually banana-shaped aubergines. I thought I would be adventurous and try one of the baby coconuts - bad move! It had the deceptive allure of a teasing tasty freshness followed by a truly bitter after taste...well not to my taste anyhow! Part 2 coming soon... Oliver Pfeiffer Image courtesy Steve Weber |
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