Home 
Life in China Bags of Beer
Life in China Bags of Beer | Bags of Beer |
|
|
|
| China | |
| Wednesday, 05 July 2006 | |
 It’s not often church bells tell the time in Chinese cities. But then Qingdao, both a seaside resort on the east coast and China’s fourth largest port, flaunts the country’s urban rules. Sixteen years of German authority starting in 1898 has left bizarre juxtapositions of Bavarian architecture and modern shop fronts – and of course the Tsingtao brewery.
Antithesis is everywhere. Yellow buildings with green spires house restaurants advertising “Fish with Chinese sauerkraut”. A Chinese flag flies next to the clock tower of St Michael’s Catholic Church. Red lanterns hang in the arches of the imposing façade of the former German governor’s residence. A 30-minute taxi drive east of the old town marks a return to modern China and the new city business district has the unmistakable gleam of Olympic investment – Qingdao is the venue for the sailing events in 2008. But generally speaking, the tourist herds are not here to marvel at cultural opposites. They are here for the sand and seafront strolls and, to the foreign observer, the beach etiquette is a source of fascination. Men sun bathe in suits and women use newspapers, tents and umbrellas to protect themselves from the round yellow villain in the sky. A white belly is as conspicuous as a boiler suit on a nudist beach. The backdrop is typically unexpected. To the right, is a new office tower; to the left is a German castle. A soupy swimming area – and the honks of passing tankers – do not inspire the donning of speedos and it is mainly used for rowing boats normally found on a placid park lake. Not that this puts off glamorous newly-weds. The beach is the scene of painstaking photo shoots in which brides in full western gear pout while hoping their make-up doesn’t melt. The marriage catwalk continues through the Eight Passes Area, inland from the beach, which boasts supermodel streets of pink and white cherry blossom. Beer is an important part of Qingdao life and every corner shop is under its influence. Kegs of Tsing Tao and a couple of stools offer passers-by a pint of refreshment. But it seems a take-away is more popular and Qingdao is the only place in the world I have seen beer being sold in plastic bags for one yuan. A man carrying a bag of beer in each hand is a regular sight around town and one friend saying to another, “Fancy a bag, mate,” must be commonplace. The brewery is well worth a look round mainly for free tastings of the black stout although it is interesting to read how beer can play a major role in the creation of a harmonious society. A trip to an English pub on a Saturday night might persuade the exhibition organisers otherwise. |
|
