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Life in China Hong Kong Survival Guide, Part 2
Life in China Hong Kong Survival Guide, Part 2 | Hong Kong Survival Guide, Part 2 |
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| China | |
| Friday, 06 July 2007 | |
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Hong Kong Survival Guide, Part 2: An afternoon stroll in Hong Kong Park and an evening's indulgence in Sai Kung Making the most out of a pleasant sunny afternoon, a friend and I decided to venture further afield, and bask in the contemporary plains of Hong Kong Park. Leaping onto the world's longest covered escalator, the Midlevels Escalator - appearing heaven-bound in its mountainous climb, we finally reached our destination a bit dazed, but finally won over by the tranquil results. This beautiful man-made park, located centrally and built in 1991 for $396 million, showcases eight hectares of modern design interloping within a complacent natural landscape. It has the instantly soothing sounds of running water, which fall angelically over cliffs and rocks into fish-populated streams and lily ponds which lace the land, helping to reinforce the park as a kind of sanctuary for urban folk wanting to reconnect with nature and escape the daily stresses of city life. Multiple pathways lead to featured attractions including a vast multi-sectioned conservatory, a visual arts centre and a stimulating museum of Tea Ware.  The real highlight of Hong Kong Park, however, was the Edward Youde Aviary (named after a much-loved former city governor). A suspended wooden walkway snakes around the huge rainforest complex, which beams with the exotic life of more than 600 birds from 90 different species! This entire park appears to slow time, and as a result somewhat encouragingly the happy hour at the restaurant bar literally lasts all afternoon - no doubt catering more for the needs of renowned binge-drinking tourists, than the majority of tee-total Chinese. It's easy to over-indulge, especially at these prices, and among such soothing surroundings. But time had to be called at the bar in order to hunt down and take advantage of the harmonious refuge of Sai Kung. The Pearl in the clam From Mongkok a crazy minibus driver took us on a frightening 20-minute winding rollercoaster ride north of Clearwater Bay, eventually hitting base at the picturesque Sai Kung Central. Mostly made up of fishing villages, Sai Kung is an unspoilt mixture of eastern and western cultures, which is divided into two main country parks spreading sumptuous beaches and coves. The Chinese compare it to ‘the pearl encased in the clam' - which I interpret as something precious hidden away to be discovered, explored and then cherished! It's a popular hideaway for homesick westerners yearning for a quieter spell away from the city, and indeed Sai Kung is noticeable for bearing a large expat population. We walked along the precariously named Fuk Man Road, which is bombarded with cosy street bars and wester- style pubs, such as the popular haunt of Duke of York. However, we preferred the rather novel and sophisticated Cheers situated on Yi Chun Street. Be warned though, a fellow patron mentioned that it can get a little boisterous if the football or rugby is on the telly!  But the harbour is where Sai Kung really comes alive. Famous for its seafood, the harbour - which is parallel to Man Nin Street - presents a welcoming stretch of fish restaurants and cool cafés which conjure up a pleasingly relaxed care-free atmosphere. During the day it is simply streaming with fisherman selling their catch on their boats in little plastic containers - all at very competitive prices. And, I am told, before he made it to the big time, actor Chow-Yun Fat made a similar living, on the charming archaic outlying island of Lamma. If you decide to purchase some of the catch, then why not get stuck in and cook it yourself? Take a short walk north to Sha Ha, where you will find a small bay area with self-catering barbecue facilities all for a modest entrance fee. They only come out at night! Evening is the best time to be in Sai Kung as there is a cool, laid-back ambience in the air that is truly contagious. The harbours beam with life emanating from coastal restaurants, bars and the pleasantries of a live coastal band from 9 o'clock. If this isn't your scene then take a sampan ride around the harbour (usually costing HK$50 per half hour) and explore the bay. There's even the exclusive opportunity to go squid-fishing, as they only seem to come out at night! Or, if you prefer just take a walk - there's fulfilment in just wondering around town and discovering the life that goes on there. You may find yourself happening upon a tucked away alleyway - like the one we found in Man Nin Street (behind the Duke of York). We later learnt it was famous for attracting movie stars such as Jackie Chan, Sammo Hung and even directors like John Woo (they had the pictures there to prove it!), all due to its unrivalled food stalls selling exceptionally good hand-made noodles and dumplings, which are prepared instantly and cooked in quaint wooden food trolleys. What I find continuously inspiring about Hong Kong is its ability to tease the relentless traveller with seemingly limitless alternative and idyllic ways to soak up the oriental atmosphere... By peering beyond the glittery facade and straying off the beaten track, one can begin to unearth the tangible roots of this fascinating culture, ultimately leading to a more rewarding cultural experience. Oliver Pfeiffer Photos courtesy of buck82 and Grace Wong |
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