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Crispy Aromatic Duck And Other British Inventions PDF Print E-mail
Food
Sunday, 03 September 2006

ImageIf you look at the food on the table of Chinese people in a Chinese restaurant, you will notice how different the dishes are compared those ordered by Brits who are not Chinese. Most dishes that appear on their table are usually avoided by the Chinese and are not found in China.
 
Of course I understand that people’s palates are different and the average British person is not used to stewed intestines with blood cubes. However, there are plenty of accessible Chinese dishes that the average British person will never try because they are inundated with the usual Chinese takeaway food.
 
So here is an attempt to make some recommendations to those who would like to venture into the realm of real Chinese food and eat what the Chinese eat. Of course, Chinese cuisine has incredible variety, especially considering regional specialities. For this article, I will focus more on Cantonese cuisine since this is most popular in the UK.
 
Firstly, let’s look at a tremendously popular dish for many Brits – Crispy Aromatic Duck. It is in fact a tasty dish that I order once in a while. However, it is not Chinese. This dish is a British invention, mixing Peking duck with Sichuan style duck. Although it is tasty, many Chinese people consider it dry (the duck is deep-fried) and therefore a waste of a perfectly juicy duck.

The Cantonese prefer a traditional roast duck where the juice and flavour of the duck is preserved and enhanced through slow roasting. The northern Chinese prefer Peking duck, a delicacy where the skin is full of intense flavour. I’m not suggesting that you shouldn’t order crispy aromatic duck. I’m just encouraging you should also try the authentic varieties as well to really get a sense of Chinese food.
 
Chicken with Cashew Nuts, another British invention. The problem with this dish is that restaurants will use sliced chicken breast. To the Chinese, and most other places on earth, the best parts of the chicken are everything but the breast because the breast is bland and lacks juice. Hence breast is best when flavour is seeped into it.

Chicken with Cashew Nuts does not do this. In fact, most places that make this dish use frozen chicken breasts because a Chinese restaurant will assume you don’t know good chicken if you order this dish.  There are plenty of other chicken dishes that are anglicised and uses poor ingredients, such as Sweet and Sour Chicken and Lemon Chicken.
 
The Chinese typically order the following chicken dishes, all of which use the whole chicken rather than just breast meat:

  • Soya Sauce Chicken
  • ‘White-Cut’ Chicken (unfortunately, I have not seen a Chinese restaurant in the UK that actually has this on the menu in English).
  • Salt Baked Chicken

 
Egg Fried Rice – when I first arrived in the UK and witnessed this dish ordered and consumed, I nearly choked! This is a British invention to accompanied Chinese dishes. Fried rice, like chow mein, is meant to be eaten alone and usually includes meat or seafood in it. To accompany Chinese dishes, many of which have their own sauce, it is best to use plain steamed/boiled rice. Egg fried rice has two things in it that usually clashes with Chinese dishes – egg and lots of oil. The dishes are the stars – don’t add anything to it to interfere with your star ingredients.
 
Fish Fillet in Any Kind of Sauce – for the Chinese, fish is best eaten fresh and whole. These fish fillet dishes violate both values. If you order fillets in a Chinese restaurants, they will assume you don’t know how to eat fish and will give you frozen fish. Like meat, the best parts of the fish are near the bones and the bones and skin contain lots of flavour that is brought out during cooking. Hence the Cantonese like the fish whole. A typical Cantonese fish dish is a whole fish that is steamed (brings out flavour from tender flesh fishes such as sea bass) and flavoured with a light sauce made of soy sauce, peanut oil, and ginger that enhances rather than overpowers the fish.
 
If you like Chinese food, I would encourage you to try some dishes that the Chinese eat regularly to broaden your enjoyment. A word of advice – most Chinese takeaways cater to non-Chinese and very low budgets so they will offer anglicised dishes with low quality, frozen ingredient.

However, don’t forget the most important Chinese value in eating – enjoy your food! If you enjoy what you’re eating, who cares what anyone says.

 
Comments
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Vicky Lee - Chinese in Ireland Posted 14:03 on 6 September 2006
I agree that the Chinese dishes are localised to certain palattes. It's the same here in Ireland, although we don't have many places that roast meat. I'm lucky that my mom roasts ducks in the restaurant and leaves 1 for family. I have asked dad to update the menu to include more authentic Chinese dishes, not more westernised ones. But most locals just don't change, they just order a Chicken Curry with rice like they always did for the past 10-20 years. Probably Dublin is the better city to go for Chinese when it comes to variety, as there is a bigger multi-cultural atmosphere, and people are more willing to try new things. Now if only the people in other cities outside of Dublin experiment, then we can all enjoy more authentic Chinese food.
Karl Roche - Outside London Posted 14:23 on 3 October 2006
Until I met my Taiwanese wife I have to say I never really cared for Chinese food. I don't like sweet and sour style food and generally as I lived outside of London then - in a town where there were not many Chinese people - the food was quite horrible.

Since then I have discovered that Chinese food is much more that big chips, funny "curries" and very shiny, bright food.

Love Soya Chicken and chicken feet. My fav is three cup chicken - although unlikely to find that in a resturant here!
burntbreadboy - Peking duck Posted 1:58 on 26 November 2006
Yes but there is indeed an authentic version of Peking duck, which uses the duck skin warpped in pancakes, isn't there? The western crispy duck version is like a modified version of this.
Chariot1 - RE: Peking Roast Duck Posted 20:44 on 5 December 2006
I'm Chinese and eat this dish occasionally. I enjoy it, but is rather fatty and oily, but has a nice taste and texture to it. It's not a dish that can be eaten all the time, as it'll help put on masses of weight on and the fat content is very high, so high if eatened all the time will surely make you feel sick.
fok sg - quick slow food Posted 20:04 on 4 January 2007
served quickly;
savoured slowly;
Dim Sum / Yum Cha gives a quick intro to the flavours that the Chinese like,
of late, in Canada we have an increasing number of Beijing and Shanghai delicacies added to the more familiar Cantonese /HK Dimsums, such is globalisation and Hauyi mobility and trend changes.
ling - food Posted 19:12 on 6 January 2007
I think it nice that english people have become more cosmopolitan in their eating habits and very often will try chicken feet etc. English food to me was an eye opener years ago when I first arrived in England. I wonder how many westernised chinese have meals at home nowadays which consist of more basic 'peasant' foods like salt fish and salt vegetables?
Pensggs - Aromatic duck Posted 3:23 on 28 January 2007
Crispy Aromatic duck was invented in London in 1960s by a restaurant manager. The dish is neither a Peking or Sichun dish. The dish combines a Peking style of service ( use of pancakes, cucumber and spring onions with a variant hoisin sauce) and a 'Fukein' style of cooking, which is the use of soy sauce with aromatic spices (aniseed, cinnamon and sichuan peppers); and slow cooking technique. To dismiss this dish shows the person is not only a food snob; but short sighted. This dish is very 'British Chinese' in nature. It is innovative, successful and efficient. This dish can be served in less than 15 minutes of receiving an order. Sadly, like most marginised people, the person who invented this dish, received no credit for inventing this British Chinese national dish, which has now travelled round the world. I was served this dish in a five star hotel in Malaysia dressed up as 'Taiwan five spiced duck'. This duck dish holds its own in America, Australia and Spain. The fact this dish was invented in England does not make it less 'Chinese'. It is equivalent to concluding that although your ancestry is Chinese, if you are born outside China, you are not Chinese.
brian massie - crispy duck Posted 1:09 on 12 February 2009
Hello my name is brian im a cehf in the states. i had the dish in the uk and fell in love with it. can you point me in the directions of method and recipie. i have almost duplicated it but would like some help
my email is bmassie@lightlv.com please send a response to this. andothe great dish i had at yautchaw was the crispy lamb belly wow great dish
AusChi asks BritChi - Suckling Pig - where for art t Posted 11:03 on 14 February 2007
Hi, I'm posting around to ask if any British Chinese know of a good place where I can buy some well cooked Suckling Pig - for CNY celebrations

Please post me susan_ss

@ hotmail.com
Tim - Re: suckling pig Posted 16:42 on 19 February 2007
Royal China occasionally has suckling pig as part of their dimsum offerings. Do I get an invitation for this valuable info :)
Tilo - Re: Food Posted 13:18 on 20 March 2007
Hi, I'm a German, living in the UK and I'm married to a wonderful Shanghai woman.
I always thought that the Chinese dishes served in the UK are more or less authentic.
That was until I went to Shanghai and my wife introduced me to the various dishes available there.
From Cantonese to Szechuan to Shanghai Dishes. From Hong Kong to Korean food.
What a difference. One dish more delicious than the next.

I'm happy and fortunate that I could experience all these different flavours, and how great would it be if those dishes were more available here in the UK.
Please don't get me wrong, but I wish that british People were more adventureous concerning food, instead of sticking to unhealthy, fatty and oily food.
On my visits to Shanghai, I had 3 full meals every day and still lost weight, due to the healthier cooking.
I can't wait to go back to Shanghai, because I can't expect my wife to cook proper chinese every day ;-)
sli - deciphering the chinese menu Posted 11:04 on 30 April 2007
I agree that many British people are not so adventurous when it comes to Chinese food, especially eating meat on the bone.

But I found that many of Chinese restaurants still use the "one restaurant, two menus" system - the English menu with all the takeaway-type dishes, and a Chinese menu with more authentic dishes.

The best dishes are almost always left off the English menu so non-Chinese speakers have only a limited selection to choose from. It's a pity.
Anonymous Posted 16:30 on 21 June 2007
all this talking about roast duck is making me dribble on my keyboard lolll
chinaman - anon Posted 4:42 on 1 September 2007
they need start selling proper bo zai fan here on the streets, cooked from the start in the pot on little charcoal stoves. nice cancerous mixture of waxed duck, waxed pork, roast pork and sausage with one sprig of choi sum for colour. mmmmmm.... delicious
chinaman - oops Posted 4:45 on 1 September 2007
what i meant to say before i started drolling over the bo zai fan is that i discovered a lot of new chinese food in this country. hoi nam chicken rice was something i never had in china. ditto dim sum cheung funs in the hong kong style which they have here. cheung fun back home was steamed to order from the liquid in front of the punter and scraped off the steaming plate into one glorious mess. it aint wrapped, just has bits of liver and pork encrusted in it almost.

also mmmmmmmmmmmm
michelle - crispy duck Posted 20:30 on 30 September 2007
can anybody help me, I have two ducks and would like to cook crispy duck to put into pancakes, how long and how should I cook my ducks for, they are wild suck, not farmed.
Dan - crispy aromatic duck Posted 18:00 on 14 October 2007
maybe this will help

crisp aromatic duck

Ingredients
1x2.75kg/6lb duck, fresh or frozen
6 slices of fresh root ginger, 7.5cm x 5mm/3 x ¼in
6 spring onions, cut into 7.5cm/3in lengths
cornflour, plain flour or potato flour for dusting
1.2l/2pt groundnut oil

For the Spice Rub:
2 tbsp five-spice powder
65g/2½oz sichuan peppercorns
25g/1oz whole black peppercorns
3 tbsp cumin seeds
200g/7oz rock salt

To Serve:
chinese pancakes
6 spring onions, finely shredded
hoisin sauce

Method
1. If the duck is frozen, thaw it thoroughly. Rinse well and blot it completely dry with kitchen paper. Mix all the ingredients for the spice rub together in a small bowl, then rub the duck inside and out with this mixture, applying it evenly. Wrap well in clingfilm and place in the refrigerator for 24 hours.
2. After this time, brush any excess spices from the duck. Stuff the ginger and spring onions into the cavity and put the duck on a heatproof plate. Set up a steamer or put a rack into a wok. Fill it with 5cm/2in of water and bring to the boil. Lower the duck and place into the steamer and cover tightly.
3. Steam gently for 2 hours, pouring off excess fat from time to time. Add more water as necessary. Remove the duck from the steamer and pour off all the liquid. Discard the ginger and spring onions. Leave the duck in a cool place for 2 hours or until it has dried and cooled. At this point the duck can be refrigerated.
4. Just before you are ready to serve it, cut the duck into quarters and dust with cornflour, plain flour or potato flour, shaking off the excess.
5. Heat the oil in a wok or deep fat fryer. When it is almost smoking, deep-fry the duck quarters in 2 batches. Fry the breasts for about 8-10 minutes and the thighs and legs for about 12-15 minutes, until each quarter is crisp and heated right through.
6. Drain the duck on kitchen paper and leave until cool enough to handle. Then remove the meat from the bones and shread it. You can do this easily with a fork. The chinese eat it with bones and all. Serve with the chinese pancakes, spring onions and hoisin sauce.
Les - Crispy Duck Posted 13:46 on 26 February 2008
I have a half pre-cooked duck leftover from yesterday. Could anyone give me a basic recipe to turn this into 'Crispy Duck' please.
Robyn - Copy Posted 15:30 on 21 May 2008
Dan from 2 above you so copied that repice from another chinese website ive just read it on my search for a decent repice!
JohnnyL - Aromatic Crispy Duck Posted 4:24 on 23 May 2008
I do not know who wrote this article on the crispy duck as being a British invention, it is a total and absolute rubbish. I happened to be there when the Chinese cuisine; in particular the Peking Cuisine; that exploded onto the scene in the 70's in the UK. I also happen to have worked at the chain of Restaurants that created the Aromatic Crispy Duck in London. It is definitely not a creation of the British, however, smart they are. It was bought over to London by a gentleman that was taught his culinary skills in Northern China in the late 1930's. He bought along his culinary skills from North China down to Hong Kong in the mid 50's to 60's and then finally to London in 1965, where the chain of Chinese Restaurants (The Richmond Rendezvous Group) that created the boom in Chinese cuisine was the cause of all the rave in the world right now. This person was my father, if the person who wrote the article cannot get the facts right, then do not rubbish the Chinese cuisine, Aromatic Crispy Duck is a well known dish from the Sichuan Province of China, may be not many people can afford to eat such a delicate dish in China, but its origin is definitely Chinese.
glyn Hughes Posted 14:08 on 3 July 2008
Completely agree with JohnnyL. My first taste of crispy duck was in the late 60's at the Kuo Yuan in Willesden. Chinese chef, Chinese owner (but Italian waiter). Clearly not a British invention.
Although I never ate there, my parents raved about the Richmond Rendezvous as well.
Now that both these restaurants have closed, do their recipes live on anywhere else?
I'm always disappointed by what passes for crispy duck these days. Duck skin is never as puffed-up as I remember and everyone seems to offer hoisin or plum sauce rather than the superior sweet yellowbean type sauce they made at the Kuo Yuan.
(you can make something close by frying up tinned crushed yellowbean sauce with about the same amount of sugar and a little bit of water to thin it)
barbara - the richmond rendezvous group Posted 14:56 on 4 September 2008
do you know what happened to the people of the original richmond rendezvous group? where are they now?
JohnnyL - Chinese Cuisine Posted 4:33 on 23 May 2008
Sorry to other readers of this article, but this DimSum 9whoever this person is) does not know Chinese Cuisine well enough to write any sort of article at all. One famous Peking Cuisine dish is the Slice Sole in Chinese Wine Sauce, which is served with slices of Sole and not whole. Also Diced Chicken with Cashewnuts in Yellow Bean Sauce is also a well know Peking Cuisine Dish. I am sorry if I am ranting but I get very distort when people do not know their facts and yet write articles that are psoted on the website.
Bill - Ah, come on. Posted 21:57 on 28 September 2008
I like Aromatic Crispy duck and order it every time I come back to the UK, plum sauce and all.
mmememem - y so cross? Posted 18:05 on 12 January 2009
i think what the author wants to convey is that this dish is not commonly found on Chinese food menus outside of the UK. to be perfectly honest, i have lived in parts of Asia where there are significant Chinese communities and i have never seen nor heard of a dish 'crispy aromatic duck'. i guess the use of the words 'British invention' could possibly mean two things. i think he is referring to the fact that this dish came to be well known in UK, and perhaps it was a dish which originated from China but was not so well known outside it's original region where it was cooked. but the fact that you cannot see this style of preparation of duck for eatng with wraps in most chinese restaurants all over the world points to it being uniquely British. in addition i would have to say that the author's comment on fish preparation is reasonable. of course there will be variations, but broadly speaking, fillets of fish are not as common as whole fish preparations from my experience - which admittedly is not so vast - i have not travelled the whole of China or anything. but having lived in Hong Kong for many years it is fair comment to say that the preferred preparation of fish (for the Cantonese) is whole steamed fish - and preferred type of fish - the Garoupa. as for the chicken preparation thing, i can't be sure, but i can say that the Cantonese preparation provides for an incredibly moist breast, which is flavourful and juicy - man my mouth is watering talking of all this food!
Chinese Man BBC London - View Posted 18:18 on 18 February 2009
I have introduced real Chinese food to my friends (non Chinese)up North and here in London and they all prefer the "real deal". It's because of the demand for cheap, fast food that qualtiy of ingredients do down! So next time your friends want a Sweet and Sour Chicken with Fried Rice, educate them!
Will - Crispy Aromatic Duck Posted 22:34 on 3 March 2009
This dish, Crispy Aromatic Duck, may or may not be an English invention but I have been to China four or five times and have never seen it on a menu...at least prepared and tasting like what is served in England. I have also never seen it in a chinese place in the States, in New York, in San Francisco, or in between. I am sure that it is served elsewhere than in England...but in England it is served at EVERY Chinese Place that I have ever visited. This is actually a pretty a fair number of places since I really, really like this dish and look for it every time I am in England. The recipe found a couple posts above is a good one if you want to do this at home (which I have done twice). The trick is finding a hoisin sauce that tastes like the ones in England. Any ideas on this?

Will
Dave - Crispy Aromatic Duck Posted 21:17 on 21 April 2010
I agree with Will. Live in Toronto (huge Chinese population in city and 'burbs). Have had Peking Duck everywhere, but never Crispy Aromatic Duck. UK is only place I've had it. Will never forget the look on the face of my (then) 7 year-old when she first tasted it in Chinatown in London. Have made it a few times with double boilers and everything...only complaint from my (now 11 year old) daughter is that the pancakes are nowhere near as good as she's had in UK.
ypp - hoi sin Posted 0:27 on 26 April 2009
heinz do a squeezy hoi sin sauce found in some supermarkets in the ketchup section. I had reservations at first, but when I saw it on sale for less than 50p at a local discount retailer, i thought why not have a flutter?


And i'm glad I did, as it's absolutely DELECTABLE. hits that same sweet spot a good barbecue sauce does, but with all the five spice taste.

I think these may have originally been made for an asian market and imported, you can see the packaging in this threat here:

http://www.hotukdeals.com/item/355501/heniz-hoisin-sauce-oyster-source-ho/


And as a native brit, grown up on anglican chinese, i would actually LOVE it if they startd selling more authentic and original cuisine. True, there are some people who never stray from chicken chow mein, sweet and sour balls and egg fried rice, but i've grown long bored with the same bland offerings and the tendency to use water filled 'rubbery' chicken, a practice which shows complete disregard for the western consumer.
Fatty Lo's Disciple - The Kuo Yuan Posted 15:23 on 27 November 2009
Please help by expanding this article about the Kuo Yuan restaurant in Willesden which has an important place in the history of chinese food in Britian.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kuo_Yuan
Mike - Outdated comments Posted 17:39 on 5 July 2010
Most of the comments on British eating habits are 10 years out of date,sure dishes that contain parts of the animal not traditionally eaten will be less popular,and there will always be a fair sized section of Brits that will never move away from what they know,this goes for Chinese,Indian and even British food.(you try getting most people to eat Game which is abundance and easily available)but the majority of people i know spend an eternity scanning the menu for something different,maybe its time for the owners of takeaway restaurants to realise this and slowly introduce a few of the traditional dishes that would be more appealing to the British, I think a few would be surprised at the reception the food would get.....
simon - chinatown soho (UK) Posted 22:34 on 2 August 2010
I used to work in Soho (10 years ago -ish). My colleagues and I used to regularly eat in various "Chinese" restaurants after work. In the more authentic places the waiters used to actively discourage non-Chinese customers from ordering certain dishes... "You no like this one".
After reading the above I wish I'd ignored their advice. I have travelled widely (not yet to China) and have eaten and enjoyed all sorts of things: Guinea pig, assorted snakes, etc etc
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