| Peking Duck Lands in London |
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| Tuesday, 02 December 2008 | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
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However, if forced to name the one, many Chinese citizens will offer up the Peking duck. Even though as evident in its own name, Peking duck has its home in Beijing (Peking is the old name but it would be sacrilege to call this dish ‘Beijing duck’), this famous duck is very much a national treasure, evident in the many Cantonese banquets. In fact, in most meals where the duck is served, it is usually the headline act. Peking duck brings back memories of my childhood when I attended elaborate multi-course feasts, typically for special occasions, and everyone ‘ahhhing’ when the duck is brought out by the chef to be carved. Given the popularity of Chinese cuisine globally, you would think the Peking duck would be served in every Chinese restaurant around the world. Peking duck is no easy feat for a restaurant. Due to the long preparation needed for the duck and the intricate cooking and serving skills required, few restaurants offer this delicacy. Some require 24 hour advance order due to the preparation time. Certainly only a handful of restaurants serve this in London and none can come close to the quality and authenticity of what I have experienced in Beijing.
[As an interesting side note, it is quite common to see Sichuan food served in alongside Northern Chinese food. Min Jiang’s Restaurant Manager Jason Li explains that the Sichuan region’s spiciness and focus on meat and rich sauces is aligned with Northern China’s tastebuds and cuisine.] However, Min Jiang’s specialty and its lead marketing message is the Peking duck. From the way they source, prepare, and serve the duck, it’s almost too precious to eat – almost. Manager Jason Li shared with me the story behind duck and the way Min Jiang approaches this treasure. Peking duck has its roots from the Yuan Dynasty in the 1330s and invented as a delicacy for the Emperor. By the Qianlong Period of the Qing dynasty in the 1700’s it spread to the upper classes and further to the mass population by the mid-20th century, becoming China’s national culinary symbol. If you have never had it before, it may come as a surprise to you to know the most distinctive and prized feature of the Peking duck is its skin, roasted to a delectable crispiness that will have you savouring it like a prized jewel. T If you think the serving ritual is intricate, try sourcing and preparing the duck yourself. Min Jiang tested ducks from 15 farms before settling for one from Ireland. To prepare the duck, air is pumped under the skin through the neck cavity to separate the skin from the duck. The duck is then soaked in boiled water and then hung to dry. While hung, the duck is glazed with maltose syrup and the innards are again with water. This hanging process takes 24 hours. When ready, the duck is roasted in a special brick ‘hung oven,’ invented during the Qing dynasty. The oven is preheated by burning wood at the base. The duck is hung in this oven and roasted for 45-50 minutes at 270 °C. While the ducks are roasting, the chef uses a pole to dangle each duck closer to the fire for 30-second intervals. I used to get annoyed at the requirement of ordering 24 hours in advance and wondered why the chef so proudly comes out of the kitchen to present, carve and serve the duck themselves. Understanding the intricacies of the dish better, if I was the chef I too would stand there and savour watching my clients eat every bit of this national treasure.
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Morocco has its tagine. Vietnam has its pho. America has its hamburger. Yet China’s food is so varied and diverse due to its many regions that it is difficult to name a national dish.
Fortunately for us, this has now changed. In July of this year, Min Jiang opened it doors to London on the 10th floor of the Royal Garden Hotel in Kensington, with a stunning view of Kensington Palace stretched across the length of the restaurant. Min Jiang’s niche in the expanding Chinese category is Northern Chinese and Sichuan cuisine using quality ingredients, served in a luxurious environment with 5-star service.
he dish is traditionally served in 3 stages and presented in an almost ritualistic way to diners and Min Jiang follows this tradition religiously. The chef brings out the entire roasted duck in a serving tray placed on a cart. He uses a special carving knife and carefully carves sections of skin of the duck off and places them on a plate to be served dipped into sugar. Then, the meat of the duck is carved and wrapped in special steamed pancakes along with spring onions and dipped into hoisin sauce. Here, Min Jiang complements this traditional 2nd stage with an additional alternative sauce - its own garlic sauce and pickled radish. Finally, the remaining meat and bones are boiled into a broth and served as soup.
