| Sichuan Invasion! |
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| Food | |
| Monday, 02 October 2006 | |
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OK, maybe it’s just me and a few foodies out there that are overly sensitive to this but it seems Sichuan cuisine is about to be the next curry. The new wave of Sichuan restaurants are claiming authenticity, which for the most part, they have succeeded. The old school Sichuan food found in the UK is usually Cantonese versions of this unique cuisine. The Cantonese are excellent chefs but they cannot do spicy – or rather, they do not want spicy. Chillies ‘ruin’ or ‘overpower’ good dishes is what I hear all the time from my Cantonese parents. For the people from Sichuan, this is just weak taste buds of the those coastal people! The recent arrival of Bar Shu in Soho has garnered reviews in literally every paper in London, claiming authentic fiery Sichuan has finally arrived in London. In fact, Jay Rayner, the food critic from the Observer, claimed within a few minutes of finding out about the restaurant, he grabbed a taxi there for lunch! Although I like Bar Shu, I don’t think it is truly authentic. By the restaurant’s own admission, they have toned down the dishes in spiciness (both ‘hot’ spicy and ‘numbing’ spicy, which is what is distinctive about Sichuan cuisine) to cater to the mass audience. They claim they have toned it down more for the other Chinese or Orientals who are not used to fiery food. However, since the floods of positive reviews, I suspect the new wave of Western diners have forced them to tone it down even more. This being said, I think Bar Shu still has tasty food and at least the dishes are come fairly close to the real thing. Having a Soho location next to Chinatown, inviting décor, and a well executed PR campaign has done the restaurant well – reservation is wise. However, I would like to alert you of two other Sichuan restaurants in London which were here before Bar Shu and can definitely claim authenticity: Angeles and Sichuan Restaurant. They are now almost weekly destinations for me. Both these restaurants share a few things in common:
For example, Ma Po Tofu, a Sichuan dish commonly found in many non-Sichuan restaurants in London is done properly at these restaurants with plenty of chilli bean sauce, fermented black beans, and ample shavings of Sichuan peppercorns. These two restaurants are the most exciting developments in Chinese food since Hakkasan and Yauatcha lifted the status of Chinese food with its Michelin stars. So go taste for yourself and if you are not familiar with the food, go with someone who is or simply have a conversation with the waiters, who will gladly guide and educate you. But be warned, you need an adventurous taste bud. If you can handle it, you are in for a culinary ride that you will gladly queue for in the dreary streets of Kilburn and Acton or better yet, the streets of Chengdu, China. Angeles 405 Kilburn High Rd London NW6 7QL New numbers: (020) 7625 8686 & (020) 7328 3255 Tube: Kilburn (Jubilee Line) Rail: Brondesbury Park Sichuan Restaurant 116 Churchfield Road Acton London W3 6BY (020) 8992 9473 Tube: Acton Town, then bus or walk Rail: Acton Central Bar Shu 28 Frith Street London W1D 5LF (020) 7287 8822 http://www.bar-shu.co.uk/Tube: Piccadilly Circus, Leicester Square, Tottenham Court Road |
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The beauty of Sichuan cuisine is its ability to be fiery and subtle at the same time. The use of Sichuan peppercorn will tingle and numb your mouth but does not reduce its ability to taste the complex and subtle flavours of the cuisine. That’s what these restaurants can deliver.| < Prev | Next > |
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