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Wednesday, 10 September 2008

Apart from the Chinese New Year, the biggest event on the Chinese calendar is the Mid-Autumn Festival, or the 15th day of the eighth moon of the lunar calendar. This year it falls on Sunday 14th September, 2008.

The Mid-Autumn Festival is a celebration of family reunion, the harvest moon and the abundance of the summer harvest. Of course, the star of the festivities is the moon cake, an edible representation of the moon. The festival isn’t complete without beautiful tins of moon cakes at home in the fridge and tins of moon cakes given as gifts to family, friends and businesses to symbolize best wishes for family reunion.

Moon cakes

The moon cake is certainly a talking point for your non-Chinese friends. I’m sure you’ve had to explain away what they are and what they taste like. Usually, the word “cake” conjures up sponge cake, icing and whipped cream to a Western palate. I describe them as having the consistency and density of Christmas cake.

The Cantonese style cakes, 10 cm in diameter and 4-5 cm thick, made with lotus seed paste and one or four salted egg yolks in the centre, and presented in sets of four individually wrapped cakes nestled in decorated tins are the most familiar to me. I caution people new to moon cakes to start off with a quarter wedge accompanied by Chinese tea. One small piece is packed with calories and not so great if you’re watching your cholesterol, but it tastes so good that you tend to have a second piece. Well it is only once a year!

When non-Chinese friends ask about making moon cakes and recipes, I say forget about it - it’s a labour intensive and complicated process, and nobody makes them these days. They’re imported from Hong Kong or China and we buy them from the Chinese supermarkets.

At first, friends new to moon cakes shy away from the egg yolks and I have to encourage them to try it because that’s the best bit. Although I understand their reticence as when I was young I didn’t like the yolk. For me, it was an acquired taste and now it’s the bit I want the most, and far better to have four yolks in your cake representing the four phases of the moon. Like Oliver Twist, I say “More egg, please!”

Mid Autumn Festival Stories

There are many stories of the Mid-Autumn Festival. The one that appeals to my romantic and tragic sensibilities is the story of Houyi and Chang’e or Hou Yi and Chang-O depending on pronunciation.

http://www.chinatown.com.au/eng/article.asp?masterid=155&articleid=736

By the way, why is it in most Chinese movies and soap operas the lovers never seem to have a happy ending? It’s rarely “And they lived happily ever after.” Instead, a tragic marriage, suicide, travelling to the ends of the earth to find your loved one to declare your love only to meet some tragic ending, getting together at the end only for one or both to die and betrayal by a third party only to find it to be a lie many years later when your loved one is married to another, but has secretly kept you in their heart all these long years.

Legend says there were once ten suns in the sky. The suns caused the earth surface to burn and plants to wither. Houyi was a famous archer who was commanded by the Emperor to shoot down all but one of the suns. He did and was rewarded by a pill, the elixir of life. Houyi didn’t swallow it straight away and hid it.

Houyi’s wife Chang’e, a beautiful and inquisitive woman, found the pill and swallowed it. Immediately, Chang’e started to fly and, just at that moment, Houyi came home and realized what had happened. Chang’e flew out of the window and Houyi gave chase half way across the heavens, but had to return to earth because of the force of the wind. Chang’e reached the moon and there she resides.

Houyi built himself a palace in the sun and once a year, on the 15th day of the full moon, he visits his wife. That’s why the moon is full and beautiful on that night.

A Family Focus

When I was young and growing up in the UK, the Mid-Autumn Festival was just about moon cakes and I was oblivious to the significance of the festivities for family reunion, but the meaning is not lost on me now as we live in the United States and far from close family in England.

The tradition of gazing at the beauty of the harvest moon and thinking of family who can’t be with you takes on a new poignancy. The moon seems magical when it’s so bright and big during the festival and you can wish upon it as people do in Western cultures.

If you are near family, enjoy their company for the Mid-Autumn Festival and if not, I understand as I share your situation.

We’ve just moved south to Nashville, Tennessee after living in Upstate New York for eight years. In our new home of two months, there are only 2.38 percent of Asians in the area’s population of which 0.35 percent are Chinese according to the 2000 Census. There isn’t a Chinatown, so without any chance of my young children seeing bright lanterns of all shapes and sizes lit up in Chinatown, I’ll tell them the story of how the Lantern Festival came to be. Let’s see how creative I can be and make some paper lanterns with them.

One legend suggests that the Jade Emperor was very angry with a town for killing his favourite goose and he was intent on raining down a firestorm to destroy the town. A kind fairy warned the residents to light lanterns on the day of retribution. When the Emperor looked down on the town, it already seemed to be on fire and he was satisfied that his goose had been avenged. Since that day, lanterns are lit in celebration and remembrance of being saved.

We’ll pay respects to our ancestors by lighting incense and leaving out offerings of fruit (oranges, pomelos, apples and Asian pears) – the bounty of the harvest – at home. We’ll cook a nice meal with some traditional red foods for luck, such as lobster, salmon, red apples, roasted peanuts and chestnuts. Next year, when we’ve made friends with other families, we’ll invite them to dinner and introduce them to the delights of moon cakes.

I’ve bought my moon cakes already and, thank goodness, we have a few Asian grocery stores in town, otherwise, we’d have to drive at least 5 hours south to Atlanta for the nearest big Asian community.

I wish all good things to my loved ones near and far and to my friends old and new, and to all readers of DimSum.co.uk.

Happy Mid-Autumn Festival!

SUSAN S. CHEUNG

Please share your Mid-Autumn Festival stories below or ask questions about the festivities. You can contact Susan directly at This email address is being protected from spam bots, you need Javascript enabled to view it .

 
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Sue Jones - Mooncake Festival Posted 23:04 on 10 September 2008
I've been invited by a Singaporean friend to lunch with her family for the mooncake festival. Is there a traditional small gift I can take?
Susan S. Cheung - Mooncake festival Posted 23:22 on 10 September 2008
Hi Sue,

Thank you for your great question.

I can only speak from the Cantonese and Hakka cultures, but when we visit with people we bring gifts of food (I think this is general for many Asian cultures), such as some nice fruit like big oranges and red apples or a box of fine biscuits/cookies or fine chocolates.

We don't bring flowers or plants or candles. Flowers are more customarily given when visiting a sick loved one in hospital or we now send flowers for birthdays, but never in white or yellow as these are mourning colours.

So I hope I've answered your question and you can't go wrong with bringing food. Enjoy your lunch.
Zonny - Where can I order mooncake? Posted 12:55 on 11 September 2008
Where can I order mooncake in the UK?
Susan S. Cheung - Ordering moon cakes Posted 14:23 on 11 September 2008
Hi Zonny,

Moon cakes are plentiful in any Chinese supermarket or grocery store in large cities and some large towns in the UK. Some of the larger cities even have their own Chinese bakeries that make them fresh. As for ordering online you'll have to Google and see what's available in the UK as I know they do deliver in other countries. Perhaps other readers may know of places to order from.
ZarenaF Posted 14:08 on 12 September 2008
Lol try explaining why you have whole egg yolks in a cake; surely you're meant to mix the yolks to make the cake? I've given up trying to explain the whats and whys of certain cultural things to my husband and son. They tend to take things at face value these days and just accept that it's a mommy thing...
Susan S, Cheung Posted 14:58 on 12 September 2008
Hi ZarenaF,

Yes, I agree, it's difficult to explain the whole egg yolk thing in the middle. Before moon cake novices have tried a piece, they can't get their head around having a savoury egg yolk in the midst of the sweet paste. I guess it's the balance of tastes for the Chinese, but sometimes difficult to comprehend for non-Chinese until they taste it! As long as they eat the moon cake, your husband and son will just be fine with accepting it as a mommy thing and if you eat something enough times it becomes an acquired taste!
Teena - thank you Posted 22:14 on 12 September 2008
Thank you for the lovely article- it is always wonderful to hear of different traditions and the stories behind them. I will think of this on Sunday as I am surrounded by my family and give thanks for all that I hold dear- even those who are a little farther away now. :) I want to buy some moon cakes here in Albany NY- your thoughts on best place?
Susan S. Cheung Posted 22:55 on 12 September 2008
Hi Teena,

Enjoy time with your family. In Albany NY, both Lee's Market on Central Avenue and Asian Market on Colvin will carry the tins of moon cakes, The Asian Market has the fresh bakery section and you can get individual moon cakes if you don't want to slurge on a tin of four. There is also the Hong Kong bakery, which makes its own cakes at 212 Central Avenue, further downtown (past Ichiban restaurant). Those are your best choices. Hope you get to try some moon cake and remember a small wedge with some Chinese tea is the best way to appreciate it.
Susan S. Cheung Posted 2:39 on 14 September 2008
Teena,

I forgot to say, oftentimes the grocery stores and bakeries sell off the unsold moon cakes at a reduced price after the Mid-Autumn Festival. Try going in early next week if you didn't manage to buy moon cakes this weekend.
Kat - Moon cakes and lions Posted 15:42 on 15 September 2008
Thank you for your article! My daughter and I visited London Chinatown yesterday and tasted moon cakes (the "moon" inside didn't take like plain egg though, perhaps something else was added other than salt??) and watched the lion dance.

She also spotted a child carrying a Pucca character lantern but unfortunately we couldn't find any in the shops.

I hope you had a lovely festival!
Susan S. Cheung - Moon cakes and lions Posted 17:13 on 15 September 2008
Dear Kat,

I'm glad you got to taste moon cakes and saw the festivities in Chinatown. Did you like the taste?

I'm not an expert, but I think the yolks go through a preserving process to taste like that, which goes to my point that moon cakes are labour intensive to make so people buy them.

We had a good family meal and talked to our families in England via Skype while eating our moon cakes!!
Rosaline - salted egg Posted 14:24 on 17 September 2008
hi,

Enjoy the moon appreciation and mouth-watering article! The egg is literally translated as 'salted egg' for the whole egg in its shell, (usually chicken or duck)has been immersed in brine for a length of time. Can't remember minimum period, but i guess it's over a month...
Susan S. Cheung - salted egg Posted 19:25 on 17 September 2008
Hi Rosaline,

I know about salted eggs as I watched my dad make them over the years, but wasn't aware if a further preserving process goes into egg yolks for moon cakes.

Still have half a tin of moon cakes left in fridge and spreading them out so they will last a bit longer.

Thanks for your comments.
Knownothing Posted 19:22 on 30 September 2008
I believe it is only salted duck's egg that goes into mooncakes.

Does anybody agree that mooncakes are extremely over priced. In Hong Kong, you can get fresh one, without any fancy pakaging, for HKD 25 each. And they taste fab.

http://huaq.net
Susan S. Cheung Posted 5:42 on 3 October 2008
Hi Knownothing,

Thanks for clarifying the question of salted duck eggs in moon cakes.

My family complain of how expensive moon cakes are in the UK, even if they're made in-house in a bakery rather than imported from HK or China. Of course, it will be much cheaper in HK and of course you get the vast variety.

The prices are not bad in the US. I paid about $15 for a tin of four.
pensggs - mooncakes Posted 1:34 on 4 October 2008
In Uk now, most mooncakes are now imported from Malaysia, with their different flavours.

The traditional single, double, triple or quad eggs with the lotus paste mooncakes are still best from HK.

Re:- The yolk within varies in quality and taste. The cheaper versions the yolks are hard and tasteless. The better mooncakes, the yolk melts in your mouth.

The yolks are generally 'salted ducks'eggs'.

When I first arrived in UK, I longed for salted duck eggs with my 'congee'. I remembered my 'biology lessons'. The theory of 'satuation' and 'osmosis' and the 'semi permeable membrane'. Thus, my first successful batch of 'salted ducks eggs'. It usually takes about one month for the yolk to reach its creamy and rich texture '.

The basic recipe. Boil tap water. Dissolve salt in the water till the water cannot dissolve any more salt. ( State of Satuation). Leave the water to cool down completely. Clean the duck eggs to rid of any debris, e.g. mud, grass, etc. Immerse the duck eggs into the satuarated salt solution. Make sue that the eggs are held down under the solution. Leave in a cool dark place to mature for about three weeks to one month. Test at three weeks and if the eggs are not ready, leave for another week to ten days. Once the eggs are ready, take out of the solution and keep in the fridge to use as required. This method is a 'home style method' not commercial. It worked for me everytime.
Susan S. Cheung - mooncakes Posted 1:01 on 6 October 2008
Dear pensggs,

Thanks for sharing your thoughts on mooncakes. I've always wanted to try all the new flavours, but have never ventured forth - not sure whether I could bring myself to eat a pink covered or other coloured mooncake!

Thanks for sharing how to make salted duck eggs. I remember that's how my dad made his eggs and I remember he always covered his bucket and kept the eggs and salt solution in a cool, dark place.

You've inspired me to make my own now for congee or to have half of one simply with rice. The simple things are the best.
cw - wonderful article Posted 20:00 on 12 October 2008
Hi! I really enjoyed your article. I'm not Asian. In fact I live in the Caribbean and we have a growing Chinese community on the island where I live. I run a youth club and the kids were so excited by the Olympics that they decided to make China their culture focus this year. I'll be printing off your article and seeing if I can find a mooncake for them to taste.
Susan S. Cheung Posted 22:15 on 12 October 2008
Hi CW,

Thanks for your feedback and please use the DimSum website as a good resource for issues affecting Chinese people born overseas of the Chinese diaspora.

If you can't find moon cakes now as they are past the season, why not try and make some. Here is a recipe on the DimSum website:

http://www.dimsum.co.uk/food/mid-autumn-festival---moon-cake-recipe.html

Good luck.
Anonymous Posted 11:54 on 7 August 2009
wao~~
Salted Egg Yolk Posted 4:50 on 14 September 2010
I prefer salted egg yolk mooncake to other flavours.
http://www.char4u.com/chinese-lunar-calendar.php
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